Mōʻaukala o nā ʻala hou

1. Nā mea hana kemikala :

Ke piʻi ʻana o ke kemika i ke kenekulia XNUMX^e Ua hoʻololi hohonu ka kenekulia i ka perfumery a me kāna mau hana hana. Ua ʻae ka synthesist i nā perfumers e kiʻi i nā mea maka he nui ʻole i loaʻa i ko lākou kūlana kūlohelohe. A, mai ka hopena o ka XIX^e kenekulia, kemika hana i ka ulu nui kūlana i perfumery. ʻO kekahi o nā hui kūlohelohe e kumukūʻai a paʻakikī loa paha e loaʻa (ʻo kēia ke ʻano no ka laʻana o nā mea kanu a holoholona paha) ua hoʻololi ʻia e nā huahana synthetic inexpensive a haumia.

Ua hiki i kēia hoʻomohala ʻana ke lilo i mea ʻala ʻole i huahana hiki ʻole ke kūʻai ʻia, ma ke ʻano mahalo i ke ʻano o nā hale hou (Guerlain i 1828, Piguet, Coty) i ka manawa like.

Ma kahi o 1830, ma Palani, hoʻomohala nā chemist (a ʻaʻole nā ​​perfumers) no ka manawa mua i nā ʻenehana e ʻae ana i ka synthesity o nā mole mole ʻala. I kēia mau lā, kēia nā molekoki synthetic hōʻike 98% o nā mea āpau i hoʻohana ʻia i ka perfumery.

Ua wehewehe ʻia kēia pākēneka e ka ʻoiaʻiʻo ke kuhi i ke ʻano o nā mea maikaʻi he nui. ʻO ka mea mua, ʻaʻole i hiki i kahi mau pilau e like me ka līlia o ke awāwa a i ʻole ka lilac i lawe ʻia mai ʻoiai ke ʻala a lākou i hāʻawi ai ma mua o ka hoʻohiki. I kēia manawa, mahalo i ka holomua i ke kahua o ka kemikaola, hiki i kā lākou synthesi.

Ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, ʻo ke kumukūʻai o ka hana ʻana i nā essences o nā mea kanu, nā nui o nā pua a me nā pilikia e pili ana i nā ʻano pae a i ʻole nā ​​hoʻokele waiwai i alakaʻi ʻia i ka hoʻopiʻi nui ʻana i nā mole synthetic.

No laila loaʻa i nā poni synthetic nā pōmaikaʻi waiwai (ʻoiai ma mua o ka hiki ʻana i nā perfume 1900 ke kiʻi ʻia i nā papa kiʻekiʻe). Akā i ka hoʻohui ʻana i ke kope ʻana i ka hanana kemika o nā mole i kū i ke kūlohelohe, hoʻonui ia i ka laulā o nā perfumers me nā ʻaʻala hou loa a me ke kumu o ka kūleʻa ʻana o ka ʻoihana. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, i ka wā ma mua, he 300 mau ʻala ʻokoʻa wale nō i hana ʻia e nā mea hana perfumery, akā i kēia lā, ua ʻoi aku lākou ma mua o 4 e haku i kā lākou mau ʻaʻala a ke piʻi mau nei kēia helu.

 ʻO ka synthesist total, ma ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe, recreates i nā kino mai kahi mea fossil i loaʻa mai petrochemicals (ka waiʻona, benzene, acid, a pēlā aku) e like me nā hopena esterification e kūlike i ka hana o kahi waikawa ma kahi ʻalekohola. Pono kahi synthesis i kekahi manawa i kahi moʻo o nā hopena kemika (esterification, cyclization: e hana ana i kahi cyclic mole mole linear, hydrogenation, etc.). ʻO ka nui o nā ʻanuʻu i laila, ʻoi aku ka pipiʻi o ka huahana hope.

2. Nā mea maoli :

Ka hoʻi ʻana o nā mea maoli.

Mai ka makahiki 1970 ma ʻEulopa a ma mua o kēlā ma ʻAmelike Hui Pū ʻIa, hōʻike i nā neʻe like ʻole i ka nā pilikia i hōʻike ʻia e L 'hana hamani ke kaiapuni ulu a me ka mahele o nā kemika a me nā huahana synthetic i ka mahiʻai, nā meaʻai a me nā huahana cosmetic. Ma hope o kahi pae o ka hoʻomohala ʻana i nā huahana synthetic (ʻo kekahi o lākou i pani i nā mea kanu a holoholona paha kākāhuahua), ʻike ka ʻoihana ʻala a me nā mea kūʻai aku iā lākou iho i ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā mea maoli no ka hoʻohui ʻana o nā mea ʻala.

Hele pū kēia neʻe me ka mea i ʻoi aku ma mua o hoʻokahi à ʻimi i nā huahana lepili kumu olaola, me ka hopohopo no ka pale ʻana i ke kaiapuni a me / a i ʻole ka makaʻu iā nā hopena ʻino o nā kemika a me nā syntheses (maʻi pū, sterility, hoʻohaunaele endocrine…), A i ʻole ma ke ʻano he makemake no ka ʻoiaʻiʻo. Hoʻopiʻi kēia i nā hale ʻala e formulate i kā lākou huahana me nā essences maoli a maoli o nā pua, nā mea kanu, nā lāʻau ... no laila, hānau ʻia kahi ʻohana ʻoliva hou: nā mea ʻala a me nā ʻaila kūlohelohe. 100% kumu kumu, ʻo lākou i kēia lā ka māla hou o nā hana hou me nā ʻala maʻemaʻe a hou. ʻO ka wā e hiki mai ana o ka perfumery e hoʻohuli ʻia i kahi naturalness hou aʻe.